Monday, January 28, 2013

Patagonia Prep

After our families left, Kristen and I started to tick the tasks off our pre-Patagonia checklist.

#1 was buying a used car.  We weren’t sure how to go about this, but I happened to stumble across a website that listed the used car inventory at all the dealers in Salta (before that, we didn’t even know if there were used car dealers in Salta!).  The process of buying the car, however, was not so easy.

It involved two VERY long days.  On the first, we took the 5-9am bus into Salta (requiring riding our bikes into town at 4:15am, in the dark), visiting a few dealerships to see what they had and how the deal would work, and then taking the afternoon bus back to Cafayate.  The second, two days later, we caught a 6am ride into Salta with Gary Kinghorn.  We arrived at the dealership at around 9:30am, and by 10:30, the deal was more or less done.  The guys at the dealership told us they had to go file the paperwork with the local government and police, so we should come back at 7pm or so to finish everything up.  Huh??  7pm?  What were we supposed to do for 8.5 hours?  We were exhausted, both physically and mentally, and now had nothing to do for most of the day but sit, walk, and eat.  Normally I might relish the opportunity for a lazy day in a café, but that day, I just wanted to go home, and Kristen was sick with a stomach bug.  Long story short, I drank way too much coffee and was jittery, nauseas, and exhausted for 5 of the 8.5 hours.  Fun day.  It was around 9pm when we finally left with the car.  It was raining and there was no moon.  The road was unlit and foggy.  Fun end to a fun day.  But at least we made it back, and now we have a great car to use here!

#2 was a Spanish crash course – Kristen and I started taking daily Spanish lessons.  Learning Spanish is, of course, most of the reason why we’re here.  We got lucky, and the husband of a woman who works at LEC is a Spanish grammar teacher who said he’d be willing to work with us 2 hours a day.  He speaks no English, which is a plus.  The lessons were intense – verb conjugations, storytelling exercises, and homework each day.  I think we improved a lot over the course of an intense week and a half.  When we get back from Patagonia, hopefully we can pick up right where we left off.

And finally, there was everything else.  Getting in workouts and bike rides, planning the Patagonia trip and booking everything, etc.  And in the midst of it all, I had the urge to cook.  Among other things, I cooked ratatouille, mostly because we watched the movie Ratatouille, but also because after two weeks of illness, we wanted to start eating some veggies again and it seemed like a perfect dish.

Now, on the eve of our departure, we’re pretty much ready to go.  All that’s left to do is put our stuff into our backpacks and get out of here.  Patagonia, here we come.

Saturday, January 12, 2013

Cafayate-Salta-Buenos Aires

Ruta 40

Crazy rock formations on Ruta 40

Quebrada1

Joel, Jeffrey, and Keenan walking into the Quebrada

Salta

Salta in the evening

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires looking like Paris

Steve planned a secret excursion for everyone the day after the wedding.  It turned out we were going to Colomé, which has the highest vineyards in the world!  A bus picked us up in the morning, and we drove ~4 hours up Ruta 40, which was mostly a bumpy, sandy dirt road, with absolutely breathtaking scenery.  The rock formations were absolutely unique – layers of rock that looked like they’d been violently upheaved, insane colors, and llama farms at the bottom of the valley.

When we arrived in Colomé, we immediately took a tour of the James Turrell museum on the premises.  The museum was really fantastic – mind-bending exhibits using light to distort perceptions.  We all wondered why this amazing museum was in the middle of nowhere (in fact, 4 hours from nowhere).  It was fantastic.  Afterwards, we had a great 4-course lunch at the onsite restaurant, followed by a tour of the winemaking facility.

Kristen’s family left the next morning, but not before Barbara baked us a wedding cake.  She realized she forgot to bake us her famous chocolate cake on our wedding day, so she woke up extra early and baked it from scratch before they left!

After Kristen’s family left, it was just the 6 of us.  I promptly came down with the flu, and so missed out on the activities for the next couple of days – everyone went to the ruins at Quilmes, and hung out around town.  After my second morning of misery, I was finally feeling well enough to leave the house.  And so it was serendipitous that Kristen came running in saying “feeling better?  We’re going to go on an ATV trip, get your clothes on!”.  Kristen, Cara, Keenan, and I rode ATVs up to Yacochuya and in the surrounding hills.  It was a blast.

The next day, we packed up and made the drive to Salta.  Since my family was zonked out and slept on the way down, we planned to do all the sightseeing possible – including some short hikes into the hills, the Garganta del Diablo, the Anfiteatro, and lots of other picture-taking opportunities.  Our driver stopped at some place Kristen and I had not yet been, and which now may be our favorite spots in the Quebrada.

Salta was pretty relaxing.  We stayed at the Sheraton, which has a gorgeous pool and a nice view of the entire city, so we ended up spending both of our afternoons at the pool.  The issue otherwise was that there wasn’t that much else to do.  Mostly we shopped a bit and ate.  Keenan and Cara found what they wanted, though – a cow skin rug, and a street market where everything was $5 and crazy.

After Salta, we flew to Buenos Aires for 2.5 days.  We had booked an AirBnB apartment in Palermo Soho, our favorite neighborhood.  We spent the first afternoon/evening just walking around town, through Palermo, Recoleta, and Retiro.  Everyone commented on how Parisian the place looked.  That night, however, Keenan started feeling sick again and had to go to the hospital, where he stayed for several hours.  He came back to the apartment around 5am, though, thankfully feeling a bit better.  The next day we woke up early (though Keenan wasn’t yet feeling well enough to join us), and went to the Recoleta Cemetery and to walk around San Telmo.  We spent the afternoon back in Palermo, and had a great seafood dinner (a welcome change) in Palermo Hollywood.

The following day, Kristen and I headed for the airport back to Salta in the morning, while the rest of the family enjoyed BA.  In all, it was really great to have everyone in town, and to show them the sights, sounds, and tastes of where we have chosen to live for 6 months.  I hope they enjoyed being here as much as we enjoyed having them here!

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Wedding Ceremony

Kristen&Jeff

The happy couple!

Men

The men (Matt always seems to sneak out of photo opps)

Women

The Burrall women

Kristen’s family arrived in Cafayate on December 27, and we had a small Christmas celebration (mostly for Kristen and my benefit since we missed the main celebration in Elk Grove).  After a few days of hanging out and some serious gym sessions on the part of Wentao and Matt, my family arrived on December 30.  They had an interesting experience – the driver we hired to pick them up from the airport in Salta didn’t show up, and they had no way to get a hold of anyone.  It all worked out in the end, but wow what a stressful day for me.  At least we got to cap it off with some delicious carne, since I made an Argentine-style asado that evening.

Both families had a great time hanging out for a couple days, and then on January 2, we had our wedding ceremony!  As previously mentioned, Kristen and I were legally married in the US in November, but wanted our ‘proper’ wedding to happen here in the Argentine Andes.

The ceremony was short – only about 5 minutes – and we held it on sand dunes near the back of the property at around 9am (we wanted to do it in the afternoon, when the sun hits the red rocks, but the afternoon weather is too unreliable).  We made our huppah (canopy) from 4 hardwood logs and a local tapestry, and designed the ceremony ourselves.  We had no officiant, so instead had everyone present participate.  In the end, it was a very small, very personal ceremony that we’ll always remember.  And of course, Kristen looked gorgeous!