Sunday, March 31, 2013

Cafayate bike race–Carrera de los Pioneros

IMG_7412

The start/finish arch

Kristen_Podium

Kristen on the podium

Our first bike race in Argentina was such an experience that I wrote an article about it, potentially to be distributed (or published) in the NYC cycling community:

-----------------------

I moved to New York in 2005 alongside several friends from college. By 2009, most of them were gone, and I was living alone. A co-worker was a road racer, and he suggested I buy a bike. A few months later, I was on NYVelocity and had a whole new group of friends. Not that this is a secret, but cycling (in particular the insanity that is known as bike racing) is a fantastic way to meet people. Wherever you go, there are surely cyclists, wishing they had someone to train with.

History repeats itself. Which is how I ended up on a street corner at 8:30am, on a Sunday, in rural Northwestern Argentina, trying to find the 1st Annual Desafio de los Pioneros 60km mountain bike race.

Let me back up. I’m currently taking a year off from work, traveling around the world with my wife Kristen. For the past few months, we’ve been living in rural Cafayate, Argentina, trying to learn Spanish. Aside from our Spanish teacher, we didn’t have too many ‘local’ friends in town. But we had mountain bikes. Pretty decent ones, actually. We’d tool around trying to find whatever local trails and rides we could, with mixed success. Then one day our Spanish teacher told us he’d met a guy at the gym who was organizing a mountain bike race in town 3 weeks from now. There would be a preview ride of the course this Sunday – would we like to join?

I thought I was done bike racing in 2011. I love riding, but I also run and swim and hike now, too. But the draw was too much – when else would I have the chance to compete in a rural Argentine bike race?

So I went to the preview ride. It turned to be just me and one other guy. And the course was . . . unexpected. For a town that’s in the front ranges of the Andes, the course was dead flat, a circuit on the valley bottom. And it was half on asphalt roads, half on rough dirt farming roads (way rougher and sandier than Battenkill) – sort of like a road race that required a mountain bike. And so I learned that there are two types of mountain bike races in Argentina – Rural Bike (XR), and Cross Country (XC). This course was thoroughly Rural Bike. In any event, the other guy (Nicolas) and I chatted in Spanish for the full couple hours it took to ride the course. Now, my Spanish is pretty good. But it’s often hard to have substantive conversations with locals since I talk somewhat slowly and use odd words. But Nicolas had nowhere to go. He was stuck talking to me for 2 hours. Luckily, he was a tolerant guy, and we had a great time chatting.

And so it began – Nicolas and his buddies would be our first real local friends. He invited me to join him and a couple other guys for some weekday trail rides. And maybe some long weekend rides into the mountains. He assured me: “no somos locos. Pero nos gusta mountain bike.”

3 weeks of training does not prepare you to race bikes. I did my best to simulate an abbreviated cycle - training 6 days a week, stepping up from endurance to tempo to sub-threshold training, long rides with Nicolas on the weekends. I lost 5 pounds and my legs got significantly bigger (it’s funny how fast your body remembers), but I wasn’t really there. And what’s more, I had no idea how good everyone else was going to be.

The day of the race came. Nicolas had told me to be at registration at 8:30am, since the race was set to start at 9:30am. When Kristen and I showed up, there was nobody there. And I realized I had mis-translated. Nicolas had meant Argentine 8:30, which is sometime between 9:15 and 9:30.

As other racers began streaming in, I got to size up the field. I had been curious about this – in the middle of nowhere, were the guys on $10k bikes going to come out of the woodwork? It turned out that nope, they weren’t. A few guys from nearby Salta were riding imported Cannondales and Giants, but for the most part the racers had a mosaic of locally made frames of all ages and states of repair (I was riding a locally-bought Zenith Astra). This would be truly interesting – in the States, I had always assumed that the strongest guys could have won on just about any bike, but now I was going to see firsthand if that was true.

Kristen and I seemed to be local curiosities – two Americans wearing slick-looking custom kits, come here to race in the middle of nowhere. One guy asked me if I was a pro. I had to explain that no, the sponsor listed on my shirt was in fact a food truck that serves Belgian waffles. Which was difficult, because they have neither food trucks nor waffles in Argentina. He asked me if it was like McDonald’s but on the street. I said no, it was more like the guy on Rivadavia street in town who makes chicken in his old oil drum grill on Saturdays, except if he served pancakes with peanut butter on them. I think I made myself understood.

They had insisted I race in the ‘elite’ category, which was a bit scary. There is no Cat 1/2/3/4 in Argentina. There are only Elite, Masters 30+, and Masters 40+ (plus a handful of other categories like Veteranos, women, first-timers, children, etc.). Apparently if you’re under 30, you’re assumed to be mighty, which sadly I am not.

The start area was surprisingly typical. There was an announcer on the mic (doing his best Latin football voice, rolling his rr’s as hard as possible), and terrible dance music playing (in Spanish, though with several well-placed English vulgarities). The pre-race announcement included such instructions as “beware of donkeys and horses in the road”, and “the pace vehicles will do their best to clear stray dogs out of the way, but be careful anyhow”. I don’t recall having to sign a pre-race waiver of liability.

Kristen had ridden to the start with me to watch the race. She hasn’t been riding much as she’s had some back issues that sometimes flare up on the mountain bike. She noticed there were no other women in the race and started to get antsy. I told her it was a bad idea, but she registered. We’re married now, I guess this is how it goes. The crowd loved her – she got the biggest cheer out of anyone at the start when the names of the participants were announced. Apparently women’s cycling isn’t terribly popular out here in the docks.

The race format was mass-start. All entrants from all categories rolled out at the same time. We were neutral for the first 1k or so, until we were out of town. At that point, all hell broke loose. The guys in the back started to swarm, and the guys at the front attacked. We were still on a paved road. Imagine the frenzied start of a road race where someone attacks from the gun, except the 5s are mixed in with the 2s, everyone is on mountain bikes, and there is no yellow line rule.

I stayed near the front as best I could. My front wheel was bumped several times, as the attacks and surges at the front began to wear out the weaker rides, who began to swerve. Several times a small group broke off the front. Each time, I joined up and tried to convince my fellow break-mates to rotate, or at least organize, but they didn’t seem to understand. The 3 or 4 guys who had attacked were sitting up. I figured they were mountain bikers and simply didn’t know how to race on the road. But after about 20k, it became clear that what was going on. The 3 or 4 strong guys who had initiated all the breaks started to survey our latest small group. We had a significant gap on the main group behind. Apparently the strong guys liked what they saw (which was the rest of us panting), and they took off. They had been attacking to tire us out! I didn’t see them until after the finish.

By the time we had reached 25k (on bumpy dirt ‘ripio’ roads now), I was beginning to get dropped from the chase group. The surges had burned up many of my matches, and the pace of the group was too much given my little training. I was in no-man’s land for a long while. I got passed by the Masters 30+ group, and was finally able to hold pace with one of their stragglers.

He dragged me for the next 15 or 20k, and dropped me on the final sandy section (which was actually a riverbed). I had decided to keep my tires pumped way up (40psi), since the race was 50% on asphalt, and as such had zero traction in the sand. I had to run through it, and then did an awkwardly out of practice cross re-mount, which turned out to be crotch destroying as well.

Once we hit the asphalt, I was in my element. I got into a tuck and time trialed (well, limped actually) in to the finish, passing several guys along the way. Who even knows how far back I finished, and who even cares.

My friend Nicolas ended up 2nd in Masters 40+, and Kristen of course won the women’s category as she was the only entrant. For that, she was given a humongous trophy, which was cool because she made me carry it back home and everyone in town thought I had won it.

As a final point, I’d like to note the infrastructure of the race. Each field had a pace moto (I know because I got passed by 2), and there were at least a couple other motos with passengers videotaping the action (they seemed to be particularly interested when Kristen bonked yet refused a ride to the finish). There were several neutral feed stations handing out water and oranges (which were a nice thought but impossible to eat while riding at full blast on a dirt road). It was honestly as well organized as any race I’ve been to, which I suppose should come as no surprise given that the rural culture is such that friends will drop by and work a few hours in a buddy’s shop or store, no questions asked. Some guy at the side of the road offered Kristen a croissant at one point because she looked tired. It seemed like the whole town was pitching in.

And the finish was no exception. The wife of a racer had cooked up two giant vats of delicious corn stew (called “locro”), which was served to all race participants (and seemingly to anyone who happened to be standing around near there). It was a real rural Argentine ending to my first rural Argentine bike race (of which there should be more, as I was ambushed at the finish by other race organizers asking me to come ride in their races.

Saturday, March 30, 2013

Goings on about town

Waterfall

Kristen, Jeff, Lindsay, and Puebla at the final waterfall

While the LEC events were fun, they left us exhausted an hoping for a return to normal ‘life’ – where once again the gym is empty, and the property is quiet most of the time.

The following few weeks were perfect.  Our M/W/F Spanish lessons were really starting to pay off, as we were seeing major improvement in speaking and comprehension.  Edgardo was working us pretty hard, and we left several of the lessons nearly brain-dead from the effort.  He also told us about a local bike race, set to take place on March 21 in town.  A friend of his from the gym, Ezekiel, told him about it, and he passed the info along to us.  I hadn’t raced in a couple of years, but was excited at the prospect nonetheless.  Apparently there was a preview ride of the course that Sunday as well.  I attended the preview ride, which turned out to be just me and one other local guy named Nicolas.  The course 60km, pretty flat, and on a mixture of asphalt and dirt roads – what they call a ‘rural bike’ course here.  Not exactly my forte, but I decided to go full on into training.  For the next few weeks, I attempted to train based on an abbreviated cycle – starting with endurance, and building over a couple weeks into tempo and threshold work.  Obviously it wouldn’t be enough, but at least it was something, and it was sure fun to be back training.

Nicolas and I also ended up becoming friends.  We rode a couple times a week up the local trails, and went on several long weekend rides.  It was great for me, because Nicolas doesn’t speak English, so I was forced to talk to him in Spanish the entire time.  It ended up being a great supplement to the lessons.

We also went on a hike up to the local waterfall with Gabi, Lindsay, and Lindsay and John’s dog Puebla.  Lindsay led the hike, since she knew the route (typically first-timers need a guide).  It’s really a fantastic hike – the valley in that part of town is Zion Canyon-esque, with high, sheer walls of red sandstone.  We took a couple detours trying to find a separate trail that would turn the hike into a loop (which we failed to find), but despite that, the hike was great – we wanted to repeat it ASAP.

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

La Estancia Owners Events

Steve Golf Vineyard

Steve hitting out of a vineyard

Kristen Jeff Piatelli

Us in front of Bodega Piatelli

Robin Bill Piatelli

Bill & Robin in front of Bodega Piatelli

Steve Barbara Piatelli

Steve & Barbara in front of Bodega Piatelli

We planned the end of our Patagonia sort-of-honeymoon to coincide with Steve and Barbara’s arrival in Cafayate for the March LEC owners events.  LEC holds a series of events for owners and prospective buyers ever November and March, about 4-5 days each.  Steve and Barbara were in Miami already for a conference, and so flying down wasn’t too much of a struggle.  Plus, Bill and Robin came in for the events as well!

Now, we’re not really big drinkers.  Wine tasting?  Sure.  Cocktails at lunch?  No way.  But the entire event weekend was wine-themed.  Wine lunches, walking wine tours in town, dinners at wineries, cocktail hours, etc.  Steve and Barbara graciously offered to sign us up for the events (we wouldn’t have seen them too much otherwise), so we got to tag along to everything.

Highlights of the weekend were:

- 9 hole golf scramble.  Kristen (who had never golfed before) signed up, and I played as her partner.  Steve (who rarely golfs) also played in our foursome.  It was really fun – we were shanking shots all over the place, but Kristen started to get them off the ground after a few holes of ‘warm up’, and sank some great putts.  All in all, a fun 3 hours walking around with Steve and Kristen.

- Piatelli dinner.  Wine maker Piatelli built a massive, opulent bodega outside of town (seemingly a vanity project, but gorgeous).  They weren’t scheduled to open until April, but LEC hooked us up with a preview of the property for a cocktail hour and dinner one night.  And what a place!  It’s a sprawling complex that would look more at home on the strip in Las Vegas.  They had a cool jazz band play during the cocktail hour, the winemaker (a friend of Bill’s) took us for a tour of the facility (and humored me by answering my questions about the mechanical equipment), and we had a wonderful dinner.  Fun night in a great setting.

- Cross hike.  One of the events offered the choice between a donkey-supported hike through some flat part of the Quebrada (not for us), or a guided hike up to the cross, led by a local fireman (definitely for us).  The fireman was super nice, and we got to practice our Spanish with him, but the hike was fairly slow going due to some less-experienced (and less in-shape) participants.  Just below the first mirador, it was getting late, and most of the group turned around so they could make the next scheduled activity.  Kristen and Barbara continued on to the cross with the fireman, but I went down to drive Bill and Gabi back to town, leaving three other participants behind (they had their own car) to find their way down.  When I went back to the trailhead an hour or so later, their car was still there.  Uh oh.  One of the participants we had left behind was older, and seemed to be struggling mightily with the tough hike.  I threw my backpack on, made sure I had my first aid kit and plenty of food and water, and ran back up the trail to try and find them.  I could see Kristen and Barbara descending far above, but there was no sign of the other 3.  I looked all over, up and down, and finally went back to the car to re-group.  And the other car was gone!  Apparently they had found their way?  I heard that night that they had gotten lost at the very end of the trail, and were wandering around the riverbed when I went to find them.  Luckily, everyone was OK.

- Blind wine tasting at Bodega Nanni.  Bill led a 3-bodega tasting tour (Domingo Hermanos/Molina, El Porvenir, and Nanni), ending up with a reception/dinner at Nanni and a blind wine tasting of a torrontĂ©s and malbec from each bodega.  It was a blast to go wine tasting with an actual winemaker, instead of just listening to the marketing stuff the tasting room salespeople tell you.

The rest was pretty much a blur of wine lunches, sobering up for long gym workouts, and fun dinners with lots of people.

Bill and Robin stayed for an extra week afterward as well.  The following weekend held the prospective buyers event, and LEC had invited Bill to give some talks about the property and their winemaking.  Bill insisted we join him, so we ended up attending even more wine lunches and dinners!  It turned out to be nearly a week and a half of fun.  For me, it was great to get to know Bill and Robin, and of course fantastic to see Steve and Barbara, too.

Monday, March 4, 2013

Home at last!

Cafayate isn’t technically our home, but it sure feels like it after 5 weeks of constant travel.  We couldn’t be happier to be back here.

Sunday, March 3, 2013

Mendoza

Vineyards

Vineyards in the foothills of the Andes

RucaMalen

The tasting lineup at Ruca Malen

When I was initially planning the trip, I thought we’d spend a lot of time in Mendoza.  It’s Mendoza!  The Napa Valley of Argentina!  Right near the highest mountain in the Americas!  But as I did more research, it looked more and more like Mendoza wasn’t really the kind of place we wanted to visit on this trip:

- The city itself is known for petty crime, particularly aggressive pickpocketing and hold-ups.  We were told this over and over by our Lonely Planet, the internet, the owners of our hostel, and most forcefully by the hairdresser we visited our first day in town.

- Everything fun to do costs a lot of money.  Even the hiking in the nearby Andes is relatively inaccessible from the city, so you have to either rent a car or take a tour.

- Vineyards/bodegas are relatively difficult to visit – they aren’t concentrated up and down one road like in Napa/Sonoma, and the tastings are mostly be appointment only.  It’s hard to do more than 1 or 2 in a day.  (The most popular way to cheaply taste wine is to rent a bike and ride around the MaipĂș area, but we found out that involves riding on a highway, and almost exclusively bottom-barrel wineries).

So, maybe in the future (say once we have jobs again), we could do a really great trip to Mendoza.  But on a budget, not so much.

In any event, we had a nice 2 days there.  Our bus from Santiago (which was advertised to take 6 hours but took 9) traversed the Andes via an insane pass at 11,500ft with 28 switchbacks leading up to it.  We arrived in Mendoza at 2:30am and took a taxi the 3 blocks to our Hostel (the area around the bus station is the most dangerous in town).  After sleeping in, we got our bearings by walking around the town, which was gearing up for the 2013 harvest festival, called Vindimia.  The festival doesn’t seem to have much at all to do with the grape harvest other than its timing – it seems to function primarily as a beauty pageant between the young women selected from each the various municipalities in the greater Mendoza area.  In any event, the fountains in town were dyed red to look like wine, and there were two parades.  We had some lunch, and then were pretty much out of things to do during siesta, so we got our hair cut.  The lady was very nice and did a good job, but she forcefully told us over and over that if we went to the Vindimia parade, we should not bring our wallets or any valuables.  That evening, we did a Malbec-tasting flight with appetizers at the Vines of Mendoza restaurant, and then headed directly back to the hotel before the parade.  Not for us.

The next day we woke up early and took the bus to the LujĂĄn de Cuyo area South of town to visit the Ruca Malen winery.  I had emailed 6 wineries in the LujĂĄn area in the hopes of setting up two tastings for the day, but only this one responded.  Ugh, but at least Ruca Malen is one of the top-rated in town.  We took a quick tour of the facilities (most wineries look the same), and then did a tasting of 3 of their lines, all of which were fantastic.  Afterwards, we told our guide that we were lost as to where to go next, so she phoned her friend at another winery and got us in for a tasting in the nick of time!  We took a cab over to the Lagarde winery just in time for the tasting (we had thankfully missed the tour), and tried some more wines.  Lagarde seemed to have a wide variance in quality – their cheap wines were meh, while their ultra-expensive wines were great.  So we bought a bottle of their olive oil.

After a detox lunch of pizza, we took the bus back to Mendoza and I passed out on the hostel couch until it was time to leave for our bus home.