Lorane, OR

Some salad materials picked from Rich and Denise’s garden (+ balsamic)

Nancy with her two pet donkeys

When we were with my sister in Yellowstone, she told us that if we ever passed through Southern Oregon, we should stop at Rich & Denise’s farm (called Hey! Bales).  Rich and Denise are Keenan’s (Cara’s boyfriend’s) aunt and uncle.  They live on a farm in Lorane, OR, about 30-45 minutes West of Eugene, OR.  Keenan spent some Summers there, and Cara has stayed there a couple times as well.  She said “you just have to see how they live out there on the farm.”

Now, I’ve been interested in farming and farm life ever since I read ‘The Omnivore’s Dilemma’ years ago.  That book made me think about where my food came from, industrial vs. small-scale organic agriculture, introduced me to the concept of vegetables as a meal, and eventually led to my signing up for a CSA (a weekly delivery of vegetables from a local organic farm).  So when we heard there might be an opportunity to spend a couple days on an organic farm, we had to go.

Only one issue – we had never met Rich and Denise before (Keenan’s dad Bill would also be in town), so we were counting on their extreme willingness to let total strangers stay with them.  Cara told us they’d be happy to have us by, but you never really know with this sort of situation.  As it turns out, Cara was right – they are fabulous hosts.  And apparently they are used to visitors coming around.  Within 5 minutes of our arrival, a neighbor wandered in and asked if she could bake some potatoes in Rich and Denise’s oven.  “Of course!” Rich replied.  “Just make sure to remember and come get them in an hour, because we’ll be out.”  The sense of community and trust in that area is staggering.

The first night, Rich and Denise took us to a dinner party at their friends Joey and Nancy’s farm.  Joey and Nancy don’t have many animals anymore (save for a couple donkeys they keep as pets), but have a great garden, and cook a fabulous dinner.  What a night – we got to hear all sorts of stories about rural life (which were especially animated when Joey, who grew up in the Bronx, did impressions of his New Yorker friends’ horrified reactions to his lifestyle in the middle of nowhere).

The next day, we went for a quick hike on the hilly farm property with Denise and her friend Stephanie (who dropped by unexpectedly), and then drove briefly into Eugene to try the famous Full City Coffee Roasters.  Denise and Rich were out when we returned, so Kristen and I cooked dinner with Bill (I embarrassingly ruined a piece of fish by trying to make a pan sauce out of beer instead of wine).  We talked late into the night with the whole family.

On our final morning, we were due to leave early for Sacramento (an 8-10 hour drive).  But Rich offered to take us mountain biking, so of course we couldn’t resist.  Beforehand, though, he wanted to tour us around the farm.  We helped harvest some lettuce.  It was a blast.

We were sad to leave.  What a lifestyle – living on a large piece of land in the mountains, eating delicious food that you grow yourself, living among a community of neighbors you trust.  It’s pretty idyllic.  We want to go back.

Portland

Kristen framed by the St John’s bridge in Cathedral Park

Randy standing on a sculpture at the Portland Water Pollution Control Lab

Our Voodoo Doughnuts haul – old fashioned glazed, Mexican hot chocolate, maple bacon, and Portland Cream

After the wedding in Seattle, we planned to begin heading South to Sacramento to take a break from traveling.  But on the way, we were excited to make a couple of stops.  The first was in Portland to visit Kristen’s cousin Randy, his girlfriend Jessica, and their two parrots, Soda Pop and Pickle.

We didn’t have too much planned for our time in Portland – we mostly wanted to hang out with Randy and Jessica, see a bit of Portland, and maybe go for a bike ride or two.  Luckily, we came at the right time – Randy is currently studying for his master’s at Portland State, and school was not yet in full swing for the semester, so we got to spend almost all our time with him.  He was a great host – Randy took us to see the PSU campus and showed us some of his work, toured us around the city, and took us to a few hidden gems (most notably Cathedral Park, which is a greenspace framed by the arch-shaped pylons of the St John’s bridge on the North side of town).  We also visited a few Portland landmarks: Powell’s books, Voodoo Doughnuts (the originator of the gourmet doughnut trend), a couple square blocks of food carts (home of the $5 delicious lunch), and the fabulous urban wilderness park (designed by Olmsted, but far more raw than Central or Prospect parks).

All in all, Portland was shockingly . . . normal.  Not at all like the caricature portrayed in Portlandia.  There were fewer and less aggressive fixed-gear bike messengers than in NYC, the food was eclectic and understated, and the hipsters we saw didn’t even look like homeless people (like they do in Seattle).  In retrospect I guess I’m not sure what I expected – people living in trees?  Hipsters occupying credit unions?  Guys with waxed mustaches riding their fixies around with free-range chicken coops strapped to the back?  Maybe I didn’t imagine it to that degree, but what we got was quite the opposite – Portland is really, really nice.

Seattle – Brian & Cathy’s Wedding

Our travels found us in Seattle, for the wedding of our friends Brian and Cathy.  Brian was Jeff’s roommate both in college and in New York.  The wedding was beautiful, the food was great, and above all, many of our friends were together in once place.  It’s easy to forget how much fun we have when we’re all together.

Olympic National Park

The Hoh Rainforest – where everything is covered in moss

First Beach at Sunset

We left Victoria early in the morning and took the ferry to Port Angeles, Washington, on the Northern end of the Olympic peninsula.  We stopped for a quick lunch and a coffee, and then headed West to Olympic National Park.

The West side of the park is pretty remote – there is barely a gas station to speak of, and it’s a good 4-5 hour drive from Seattle, making it inaccessible for a day trip.  There is one small town, though.  Forks, WA.  Which, we learned, is the setting for the Twilight series.  When we drove through, they had a big banner that read “Welcome to Stephanie Meyer Appreciation Day!”.  We didn’t see a parade or anything, though.

We made our way down to our planned oceanside campsite, but when we arrived, there were warnings posted about a black bear that had been coming into the campsite.  Nope, not for us.  So we instead drove North to the Hoh Rainforest park entrance, and up the 12 mile park road to the Hoh Campground.

Once we arrived, we realized we’d forgotten to get groceries.  All we really had left was soup and cheese quesadilla materials.  And we were probably an hour from the nearest store.  So we had cheese quesadillas for dinner, cheese quesadillas for breakfast, peanut butter and jelly quesadillas for lunch, and then we couldn’t take it anymore and drove to Forks to get some salad mix for dinner the next night.

We spent 2 nights in all at the Hoh Campground.  Our first day in the park, we did a nice 5 mile hike in the Hoh Rainforest.  The Hoh Rainforest is a pretty interesting place.  It’s one of the largest temperate rainforests on the continent, and EVERYTHING is covered in moss.  It hangs from the trees and lies on the ground, and pushes up near the banks of the Hoh River.  It’s very beautiful.  We also got extremely lucky with the weather – sunny skies and temperatures in the 70s.

After our hike in the woods, we decided we wanted to see a sunset on the coast.  A park ranger pointed us toward First Beach, which was about an hour drive and a 1 mile hike away.  It was totally worth it – the beach was fairly remote, framed by bluffs, with a natural arch and sea stacks all around.  We took our salad mix with us for a picnic dinner on the beach.

The next morning, we got up very early in order to do a big hike on the East side of the park, with views of the Puget Sound and the Cascade volcanoes.  We drove back the way we came – through Forks and Port Angeles.  Forks still had that “Stephanie Meyer Appreciation Day” banner up – apparently every day in Forks is Stephanie Meyer Appreciation Day.  Eventually we came to a series of winding, one lane dirt roads leading directly up the side of a mountain to the trailhead.

When we arrived at the trailhead, two things happened.  First, the air was so thick with smoke we could smell it.  Apparently there was a large forest fire on the Eastern side of the Cascades, and the smoke was being sucked into the Puget Sound area.  It killed any views we might get from the top, and we weren’t too keen on breathing lungfulls of smoke for 4 hours, either.

But none of that mattered, because of the second thing that happened.  The trail was closed due to ‘aggressive mountain goat activity’.  There were ranger postings from early June saying that the deep winter snowpack had reduced the local mountain goat habitat, and they had been hanging out on the trail.  They were apparently approaching hikers aggressively to defend their food supply.  But it had been a month and a half since the trail closure, and all the snow was gone!  Why was it still closed?  We got out of the car to read the full ranger report, wandered around the trailhead area, and discussed whether or not we should just go ahead and do the hike.  And then, all of the sudden, we heard hoofbeats scrambling up the mountainside.  Aggressive mountain goats!  We both sprinted for the car and immediately drove out of there.  Screw that hike.

We drove to Tacoma and did a mountain bike ride in a local park instead.

Victoria

The “Sunken Garden” at Butchart Gardens

Kristen in the “Italian Garden” at Butchart Gardens

Us at East Sooke Regional Park, looking across the strait of Juan de Fuca at the Olympics

After leaving Whistler, we drove through Vancouver and took the ferry to Victoria.  Victoria is situated on a large island (Vancouver Island) off the coast of British Columbia, just a few miles from Washington State (across the Strait of Juan de Fuca).  In fact, you can usually see Washington’s Olympic Peninsula from many parts of Victoria.

We came to Victoria for the gardens – Butchart Gardens.  The gardens tend to be the first thing people ask you about if you mention you’ve been to Victoria.  “Oh, did you go to the gardens?”

So we went the first afternoon.  The day was pretty cloudy and chilly, so the grounds were empty – we more or less had the whole place to ourselves.  And it was beautiful!  The grounds are broken into several areas, each with its own theme – the Sunken Garden (set in an old limestone quarry), the Rose Garden (with what had to be hundreds of rose varieties), the Japanese Garden, the Italian Garden, the Mediterranean Garden, and plenty of other smaller areas in between.  They had flowers, trees, and plants we’d never seen before, all arranged beautifully.

We visited in the late afternoon – Kristen’s mom and grandmother had advised we should budget 2-3 hours to walk the entire thing – and then I took Kristen on a date to the restaurant on the garden grounds.  We ate dinner as the sun was setting, and the food turned out to be fantastic (flowers in the butter!).  After dinner we re-visited our favorite parts of the garden, all of which had been lit up in a nighttime display.

The next day, we drove into downtown Victoria to take a look around (we were staying at a campsite in a provincial park about 30 minutes away).  After a few hours of walking around, we had seen most of the major attractions of the city – seaplanes landing in the small bay near downtown, the BC capital building, the Empress Hotel, a walk around the bay, and a nice coffee shop near the water.  By that point, we were starting to get a little antsy for the great outdoors.

So we picked up a free map of the area and looked for a local park near the shore.  As it turned out, the East Sooke Regional Park was about 45 minutes West, and looked like it would offer great views of the Olympic Peninsula.  It did.  We drove around the edge of the park, and then did a quick 2 mile hike down to the bluffs on the shore.  The views were incredible.  Our outdoor senses satisfied, we grabbed a pizza and headed back to our campsite.

Whistler

Vegetables!  Prepared in an actual kitchen!

Kristen looking out over Green Lake on the Rainbow-Sproatt Flank Trail

After 3 or so solid weeks living in a tent in the wilderness, we decided to rent a condo for 5 days in Whistler, BC.

The drive from Jasper was gorgeous (there did not seem to be any sort of large valley between the Rockies and the coast ranges like there is further south).

When we arrived, the place felt impossibly luxurious.  Our own bathroom!  That we can use at any time of night without having to go outside!  A real kitchen!  Heat and AC!  A real bed!  I think we both felt almost a little ashamed to have so much convenient stuff all to ourselves.

We went a little nuts on the food.  I should preface this by saying that at the start of the trip, we had fantastical ideas of what we would be able to cook at our campsites (we even brought a couple cookbooks).  By August, they turned out to be just that – fantasy.  Simmering a pot of wild rice for an hour over a finicky propane stove is a huge bummer when it’s 40 degrees outside and the wind is blowing.  Our campsite meals had degraded to the old standbys – a can of Amy’s Organic soup and some quesadillas.

So when we got to Whistler, we cooked every meal, and pounded the vegetables.  We had salads, roasted root vegetables, wild rice pilaf, hearty grain bread dipped in olive oil and vinegar, pancakes for breakfast, and sometimes a nice piece of meat to share each night.  And, since storage wasn’t an issue, we also got to try a few different bottles of wine while we were staying there!

Aside from the food, Whistler was a blast.  We went for mountain bike rides every day, mostly on the local Frank Zappa trails near lost lake, with one long ride up the Rainbow-Sproatt Flank Trail.  It had been a month or two since we’d last ridden, so we were rusty.  But by the end of the trip, we were riding better than we ever had.  We also went for long walks through the village and surrounding areas each day.

After a few weeks in the wilderness, Whistler felt like paradise.  We didn’t want to leave.

Parks Canada – WTF, eh?

Canada appears to manage its national parks in an . . . odd . . . way.

We’ve been to a number of national parks in the US over the past couple of months, and we pretty much know what to expect at this point.  The US seems to treat its national parks as extremely sensitive land, with minor, controlled commercial development, a rustic, wilderness feel, with strict boundaries and rules, and plenty of rangers and park personnel around.  You know when you’ve entered park land because there are only a few roads in and out, all with manned booths.  There are generally few/no services around – it can be quite frustrating to stay in a national park for days on end because it’s hard to buy the things you need.  But for us, that all adds to the rustic feel of the parks – you are closer to nature, and closer to the past.

So imagine our surprise when we drove West from Calgary to Banff national park:

- A major expressway artery runs through the park (so major it’s called Highway 1).  You don’t know when you’ve entered the park (maybe there was a sign?).  There was a booth a number of miles in (apparently blocking part of the expressway?), but I’m not clear that you had to purchase a parks pass to drive the highway.

- An expressway in the middle of an area that is supposed to function as a diverse wildlife refuge?  Seriously?  No question they’re dividing animal populations and restricting habitat with that one.  They have installed some ‘wildlife overpasses’ to let animals cross over the highway, so I guess that’s a step in the right direction, but seems pretty optimistic as a fix.

- Why are there major towns in the middle of a national park?  The town of Banff is pretty chichi, with expensive shops and restaurants, a mall, and more ice cream shops per block than our previous high-water mark, Bar Harbor.  (Ice cream shops per block is our personal ‘index of touristiness’).  The parks in the US sometimes have small towns on their flanks, and you can occasionally get lucky and find a grocery store inside the park boundary.  Yet there are 3 ski areas in Banff national park!

- Lake Louise, which is a gorgeous, milky blue glacial lake about 45 minutes North of Banff, has a massive Four Seasons-like development at its base.  There was a guy playing the harp in the lobby.  Why is this in a national park, right at the border of a major natural wonder?  We thought national parks were supposed to be unspoiled and affordable to a nation’s populous.

- During our 2 weeks in 3 Canadian national parks, we did not see one person we could legitimately call a ranger.  Sometimes they had huts near trailheads where rangers were supposed to be, but nobody was ever in them.  This is grizzly bear country!  Who deals with the wildlife?  Who makes sure all these tourists don’t wreck the landscape?  Nobody we saw.

- In Jasper, we saw a number of people box in a bull elk to take pictures of it, until it got angry and started howling, scaring it into a road where traffic had luckily stopped.  In Glacier, two park rangers were on scene when we were viewing 2 grizzly bears playing in the water near the side of the road 300+ feet away or so, and told us to vacate the area when the bears got out of the water because they needed more space.

Apologies for the diatribe here.  We wondered these things in hushed tones while we were visiting the parks, unsure if we were being too critical.  But now, we feel somewhat vindicated in our assessment.  Kristen has been reading a book on grizzly attacks, which points out that the ridiculous nature of Banff’s extreme (for a national park) development, the expressway, and some poor wildlife management decisions, had historically created circumstances in which bears could become particularly dangerous in the area (it’s been better in recent years due to some drastic changes in practice).

Not that the US national park system doesn’t have any issues – but when you enter a park in the States, you at least know what it’s supposed to represent.  The national parks we visited in Canada felt like, well, everywhere else in Canada.

Jasper

Panoramic view from the top of Bald Hills, near Maligne Lake

Us at the top of Sulphur Peak, near Miette Hot Springs

Athabasca River with its characteristic serpentine twists near Mt. Kerkeslin

Jasper NP is like a smaller version of Banff.  The town itself is smaller, there are fewer things to do, and there are less people.  Even over Labor Day, when we were in town, the place wasn’t exactly packed.  And one other thing we noticed: it’s frigging freezing. No wonder – it’s at 53 degrees North latitude. But even so, nightly near-freezing temperatures in late August/early September? Good thing we got that zero-degree double-occupancy sleeping bag.

It is, however, spectacular.  The views are similar to Banff, with glaciated peaks and mountain lakes all around.  And the town itself is nice, with a good array of shops, bakeries, coffee houses, and restaurants.

Our time in the park was spent in a similar fashion to Banff, with as much hiking as possible:

Day 1: rainy and cold. We hung out at a local bakery/coffee shop in the morning, and then drove to check out some in-town sites – Patricia Lake, Pyramid Lake, Edith Lake, and Annette Lake. Each has a small network of walking paths near and around it, so we tried to find the gaps in the rain and do a bit of wandering.

Day 2: Maligne Lake area.  There was a bear advisory on the route we originally chose (Opal Hills), so we hiked up the other side of the meadow, to a ridge in the Bald Hills.  And boy are we glad we did!  Maligne Lake has completely different sights on either side of it – gorgeous glaciated peaks on one side, and far more eroded, smoother peaks on the other.  Our hike ended up taking us to the top of the eroded side, so we got spectacular views of the picturesque side across the valley.  The only issue was that we saw a large pile of fresh grizzly bear scat at the bottom of the trail, which made for a somewhat nerve-racking time until we reached the tree line.  After the hike, we drove over to an area known for mountain goats – the Kerkeslin Goat Lick.  We spotted a number of them, impossibly high on the mountainside, and then saw one close up wandering around near the road!

Day 3: Miette Hot Springs area.  This place has a pool that is fed by hot springs water and was thus jammed with people, so we avoided that part of the area.  Instead, we did a short but difficult hike up the Sulphur Skyline trail to Sulphur Peak, which offered great 360 degree panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.  We were feeling pretty good, so we hiked typically – we absolutely bombed up the mountain, passing many people along the way, and then came down slowly and carefully, being passed by multiple (often the same) people.  It’s sort of our thing at this point.

Wildlife

Two grizzlies playing in the water at Glacier NP

Cow moose eating gravel on the side of the road in Big Sky, MT

Bull elk walking along the road in Jasper

Mountain goat licking salt from rocks on the Icefield Parkway, near Jasper

A herd of bighorn sheep hanging out at Miette Hot Springs, near Jasper

I sure am glad we got a pair of binoculars for this trip.  The past few weeks have been like a safari.  Some of our best sightings have been wildlife on the sides of mountains, across valleys, or otherwise far away.  Unfortunately, our ‘equipment’ doesn’t really allow us to take pictures through our binoculars, so most of our wildlife photography happens when we’re lucky enough to be up close (often at the roadside).  So far we have seen:

Grazing animals

• Bison (herds)
• Elk (bull & cow)
• Moose (bull & cow)
• Bighorn sheep (herds)
• Mule deer (several)
• Pronghorn antelope (2)
• Mountain goat (5+)

Rodents

• Marmot (many)
• Pika (many)
• Chipmunks, squirrels, ground squirrels, Columbian ground squirrels (who even knows)

Birds

• Bald eagle (two)
• Osprey (several)
• California condor (several)

Animals that are scary

• Black bear (5+)
• Grizzly bear (2)
• Wolf (1)

Smaller versions of animals that are scary

• Coyote (1)
• Fox (1)

Animals we ate

• Pigs
• Cows
• Chicken (meat)
• Chicken (eggs)
• Deer

Icefields Parkway

Kristen at the Peyto Lake overlook

Typical view from the Icefields Parkway

Driving past the Athabasca Glacier, part of the Columbia Ice Field

The road between Banff and Jasper is the most beautiful road either of us has ever driven.  The drive should take about 4 hours if you don’t stop.  We stopped so much it took us at least 6.

It’s called the Icefields Parkway, and for good reason.  There are constant supplies of glaciers and gorgeous mountain lakes within view from the roadside.  We knew it was going to be pretty nice; we did not know it would be like THIS.  Our Canadian Rockies guidebook sort of underplayed how spectacular the drive would be, and Kristen said afterward she felt she was “underprepared” for the majesty of the place.

Lake O’Hara – the trail to Mordor

Panorama of the Lake O’Hara area, taken at Wilwaxy Pass

The trail to Mordor – looking at the Lake Oesa basin from near Wilwaxy Pass.  Route barely visible.

Kristen on the way out of the Lake Oesa basin

Jeff nearing the Opabin Plateau area

Panorama of the Lake O’Hara area, taken at All Souls

Lake O’Hara is, simply put, the best hiking I have ever done.  It is also easily in Kristen’s all-time top 5 (she has a lot more experience than me).

The lake itself is situated in a glacial basin about 10-15 miles Northwest of Lake Louise, just across the British Columbia border into Yoho National Park.  Access to the lake basin is severely restricted, in order to keep the area as pristine as possible.  A bus runs a few times a day from the parking area near the highway, up the 11km dirt road, to a small and rustic day hut at the base of the lake (named Le Relais, but called Le Creuset by Kristen because she couldn’t remember the proper name).  Bus reservations are taken exactly three months in advance, and fill up within minutes.  You are not allowed to drive your car up the road, and not allowed to ride a mountain bike up the road.  You either take the bus, or you walk (which almost nobody does).

We had not heard about Lake O’Hara when we planned this part of the trip.  Kristen read a few snippets about it the day we arrived in Banff, buried somewhere in our Canadian Rockies guidebook.  The book said it was the best hiking in all of the Canadian Rockies, but good luck getting there.  So of course, we had to do it.  But we didn’t have bus reservations.  Information on the internet was spotty, but we read that it might be possible to get next-day reservations by going to the visitor center in nearby Field, BC at 7:30am the day before you wanted to hike.  So we woke up at 6 on our rainy day in Banff and did the 1 hour drive to Field.  No dice, doesn’t work that way, no spots.  They told us if we showed up at the Lake O’Hara parking lot at 7:30am the day we wanted to hike, we would have a good shot at a standby/cancellation spot on the 8:30am bus.  It was seeming pretty iffy at this point, but we said screw it and woke up at 6am again.  We got to the parking lot at 7:30am as instructed, and we were the sixth group in the standby line!  People had arrived at 6am to secure their spots.  Crap.  We didn’t get a spot on the bus.

It was walk up or go home.  We walked up.

The roughly 6.5 miles and 1000 vertical feet took only a little over 2 hours to cover, and we were feeling pretty good when we arrived at the day hut.  Even better, the area looked spectacular.  We asked for advice on hikes in the area, and the girl working the counter at the day hut told us we had to take the ‘Alpine Circuit’ route.

Apparently the Alpine Club of Canada built a ridiculous trail around the walls of the basin.  Lake O’Hara is walled in maybe 200-250 degrees around by sheer peaks, with various terraced lakes, benches, passes, and hanging valleys above it.  The ‘Alpine Circuit’ begins at one end of the wall, goes straight up (steepest trail I’ve ever been on), stays up, traveling across scree fields on the sheer mountainsides, visits two lake basins on its way around, then finally drops down back to the valley floor most of the way to the other end.  It’s only 12km in total distance, but is tough going.  There is barely a trail in many sections.  However, the views are totally worth it.  The trail is above treeline for 95% of the hike, so your entire field of view is filled with peaks and glaciers all day.

We were so excited to begin, we absolutely bombed up the initial hillside (~1500ft elevation gain over 1 mile, yikes) to get to Wilwaxy Pass, the first major lookout point of the hike.  From there, we traveled to Lake Oesa.  This was our favorite part of the hike.  It felt like walking the trail to Mordor.  A narrow trail on a mountainside, loose rocks, 500ft drops, and giant, imposing layer-cake mountains in all colors, in all directions.  It was the most fantastic place I’ve ever been.  We ate lunch at Lake Oesa, which is the top in a series of terraced lakes and waterfalls that drop down to Lake O’Hara.  From there it was more rock scrambling and non-stop views on the way to the Opabin Plateau (called the O’Pabst Blue Ribbon Plateau by me all day because I couldn’t remember the proper name), a lush bench with many small lakes and a series of trails criss-crossing them.  We spent a bit of time on the plateau, and then made our way up the absolutely terrifying ascent to All Souls lookout point (the high point on the far side of the trail) for the best panorama of the area.  And from there it was finally down back to the day hut.  I was absolutely destroyed by the end of the hike, but Kristen was somehow feeling good.  We caught the bus back down the access road (no reservations required) and returned back to our campsite Banff, exhausted.

We’re pretty glad Lake O’Hara is a ‘best kept secret.’  Almost everyone we met up there had been before, and were fairly serious hiking enthusiasts.  It’s less than an hour away from Banff, yet totally unspoiled.  We will be back – our first discussion after coming out of the area was regarding who we should tell first about the area, and which friends we should bring up there next summer.

Banff/Lake Louise

Typical oddly eroded limestone peaks in the Banff area

Kristen looking down onto Lake Louise from Big Beehive

Borgeau Lake

The spectacular Moraine Lake

Banff is about a 4-5 hour drive from Glacier NP, but it looks completely different.  The most striking mountains are capped with limestone, which is a brilliant bright white, and erodes in very odd ways.  Some mountains look like they’re made of Legos, with layer upon layer of odd shapes protruding everywhere.

We had our own names for some of the peaks - “trapdoor mountain” for the peak above the town of Banff (it really did form like a trapdoor, a slab of rock tilting up toward the sky), “mount melty” for a series of peaks that had insanely eroded faces, “terrace mountain” for one peak that had chunks broken off its top, forming flat spaces that grass was growing on, and so on.  Why did we make up our own names for the mountains?  Because the attractions in the area are named terribly.  Many, if not most of the lakes and peaks we came across had some boring person’s name.  Lake Louise.  Lake O’Hara.  Nigel Creek.  These are not names that inspire the imagination, despite the fact that they are SPECTACULAR places.  Especially after we had come from Glacier NP, where they have totally awesome names like “Two Medicine” or “Siyeh Pass”.

And that wasn’t the only point of differentiation from Glacier NP.  I’ll save our thoughts on Canada’s national park system for another post, but suffice it to say Banff NP was extremely ‘touristy’.  Where Glacier was rugged and raw, Banff is a posh ski town with stores that sell Gucci.  We couldn’t help but create a system to decide how in tune with the wilderness around it a place is (specifically in Grizzly country).  Where Glacier was accessible bear spray, backpackers, ponchos, layers, bear safety enforcement, and rugged trails, Banff was tucked in collared cotton shirts, unprepared hikers carrying no water, no warm layers (and up on mountain passes it often gets really cold really quickly), bear bells, and people hiking silently.  Moving from Glacier to Banff was a pretty serious change of pace.

That said, we really liked the town of Banff.  It has great coffee shops, grocery stores, and a few (if you can find them) cheap options for dinner.  It has a bit of the same feel as Aspen.  And the surrounding mountains are spectacular.

We think we got a pretty good feel for the place in our few days there:

Day 1: hikes in the Lake Louise area.  Lake Louise is an absolutely gorgeous, milky blue lake (the milky color is the result of ‘glacial till,’ or pulverized rock, draining into the lake).  It was the first lake of this color I’d ever seen, and it reminded Kristen of the glacial rivers she’d seen in Patagonia.  We hiked up to the Lake Agnes Teahouse to eat lunch (the area above Lake Louise contains two alpine tea houses).  The teahouse itself was a disappointment – spaced out staff and high prices, but the scenery was great.  We then hiked over Big Beehive and on to the Plain of the Six Glaciers trail, stopping for tea at the more inaccessible and rustic Plain of the Six Glaciers Teahouse.  This second teahouse was great – the staff packs in all their ingredients, they have no electricity, and you really feel like you’re in a remote part of the woods.  We hiked out in the late afternoon for a total trip of about 10-12 miles.

Day 2: hiked to Borgeau Lake.  We were a bit tired from the previous day, so the moderate hike surprisingly took it out of us.  The lake itself was nice, and we had fun chasing Pikas around on the scree-filled shore.

Day 3: rainy and cold.  We drove briefly up to the spectacular (even more so than Lake Louise) Moraine Lake to look around, but it was so cold we left within 10 minutes.  So we took the rest of the day off, hanging around the town of Banff.

Day 4: hiked at Lake O’Hara.  So spectacular it merits its own post.

Glacier National Park

Us at Avalanche Lake

Siyeh Pass – the view looking East

Jeff on the shore of Bowman Lake

The view over the back side of Dawson Pass

I have never seen anything like Glacier National Park.  We’d both been looking forward to this part of the trip, because we knew it would be scenic.  But we had no idea how overwhelming it would be.

Glacier NP is isolated.  There are a couple of very small towns flanking it, and almost no infrastructure inside the park.  There is only one road that traverses the park – the Going to the Sun road.  It rises from the valley floor up to Logan Pas with no switchbacks – just a steady ascent up the mountainside on an extremely narrow road.  The rest of the access to the park is via minor roads that go from the park boundary in about 5-10 miles to various trailheads.  All this is to say, Glacier NP is not a park for driving.  It’s not a park for really much of anything except hiking.  The best stuff in the park is only accessible by foot, and usually a few thousand feet up.

We happened to have fantastic insider guidance.  Our friend Joanne has some good friends who live right near the park, and they wrote us a super-long email with tips on hikes, where to stay, etc.  We followed it:

Day 1: had some campground issues, then drove the Going-to-the-Sun road from our campsite on the West side of the park over the pass to the East side.  Easily the scariest, and certainly one of the prettiest roads I’ve ever driven.  We also did an easy 4 mile hike to Avalanche Lake, which was fantastically gorgeous.  3+ waterfalls with glacial sources fell thousands of feet to feed the lake.  The glacial bowl took up my entire field of view.

Side note #1: on the hike up to the lake, a couple of locals made snarky comments about the bear bells we were wearing - “did you buy those at the Bear Bait Bell Co?”, and “do I hear Santa Claus coming?”.  We were a bit confused at this point.  We noticed that that the locals don’t wear bear bells and were wondering why.  But we figured they couldn’t hurt and left them on our packs.

Day 2: hiked up and over Siyeh Pass (a local’s favorite).  We hiked it East-to-West, which is sort of backwards from the usual route.  The hike gains over 3,000ft the way we hiked it, but only 2,000ft if you hike the other direction (which is why that direction is the most popular).  Views were indescribable nearly all the way up – above treeline for 75% of the hike, with views of no less than 3 classic U-shaped glacial valleys at the top.

Day 3: rainy and cold.  On the advice of Joanne’s friends, we drove up to Bowman Lake in the NW corner of the park to do some walking along the shore in between rain showers, and a little fishing.  And wow, Bowman lake is like a vision of what a mountain lake should be.  Framed by a glacial valley, deep blue water, etc.  And because this is a very isolated part of the park, there was barely anyone around.  There is, however, a tiny two-store town called Polebridge at the park’s edge.  We stopped in at the Polebridge Mercantile for huckleberry bear claws on the way in, and at the local restaurant-bar-meetup joint for pizza on the way out.  We were probably the only non-locals around.

Day 4: hiked up to Dawson Pass in the Two Medicine area.  There is a boat that crosses Two Medicine lake, cutting about 2 miles off of either end of the hike.  We planned to hike in and take the boat back (for an ~11 mile hike).  Views from the top were great, featuring a swooping U-shaped valley and views of the Divide.  But, the majority of the hike was in the forest, with known grizzly populations in the area.  We went quite slow through the more densely forested sections, making lots of noise as we walked (especially on the way down).  Because of this, we mis-calculated our timing and missed the last boat back.  So we had to walk through MORE grizzly-infested woods at near dusk (also known to us as “bear o’clock”).  Great hike, but pretty stressful for Kristen especially due to her intense fear of bears, made worse by our run-in with a couple who had just seen a huge grizzly just off the trail in the direction we were headed.  However, we didn’t see any bears all day (well, until we spotted two black bears on the mountainside above the trailhead, after the hike).

Side note #2: at the top of the pass, a couple locals noticed our bear bells and told us that they believed the bells might be counter-productive – bears don’t identify the bells as human noise and aren’t scared off, and might actually be curious and come to investigate the unknown sound.  They said making lots of noise was the best bet by far.  And they also had a local joke for us - “how can you tell the difference between grizzly and black bear scat?  If it has jingly bells in it, it’s grizzly scat.”  And that was when we stopped using bear bells.

Day 5: we hadn’t yet seen any grizzlies and were leaving the park, so we drove to the Many Glacier area on our way out of the park.  Many Glacier is known for its high grizzly density.  We were not disappointed.  We saw two grizzlies, approximately 3 years old, playing in the water and catching fish, about 300ft from the road.  Better to meet them there than on the trail!

After we left, we both felt as though we had only scratched the surface of what the park has to offer.  The staggering beauty and isolated corners of the park only reachable by long hike made us desperately want to return.  Hopefully soon.

Yellowstone

Old Faithful and a rainbow in its mist

The Grand Prismatic Pool

Lower falls in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River

Mammoth Hot Springs cascading travertine pools

After leaving Jackson, we spent the better part of 3 days in Yellowstone NP.  At the outset, we weren’t sure how much time we would need to see Yellowstone.  It’s a pretty big park, but we were staying about an hour drive away in Big Sky, so any day visits would require at least 2 extra hours of driving.

Well, it was fantastic enough that we spent (quite literally) every waking minute inside the park for 3 straight days.  We left our condo in Big Sky at dawn, and returned home at around 10 or 11pm on average.  We didn’t sleep all that much for those 3 days.

It started when we took the ‘scenic route’ from Jackson Hole to Big Sky – passing through Grand Teton NP and Yellowstone NP on the way up.  We hit the Yellowstone park boundary at probably 2pm.  From that point forward, we stopped on average about every 5 minutes to see some natural wonder or other.  And it turned out Old Faithful and the incredible lower geyser basin were on our way up as well.  So of course we had to stop and see it.  (We accidentally missed Old Faithful’s first eruption at around 6:30pm, and so had to wait until around 7:45 to see the next one.  Old Faithful is about a 2-2.5 hour drive from Big Sky.)

The best way to describe Yellowstone is . . . weird.  Over the next two days, we saw and did some simply incredible stuff:

In the geyser basins, bacteria grow in the thermal pools, each type a different color, able to live in a different band of temperature.  The colors therefore roughly indicate the temperature at various parts of the pool (blue for very hot, orange somewhere in the middle, brown for not that hot, etc.)  Some geysers were erupting constantly.  At Mammoth Hot Springs, hot water traveling up through limestone picks up minerals and precipitates them out as travertine, forming incredibly odd cascading pools (again filled with bacteria that color them rainbows).  Steam just comes up out of the ground all over the place, indicating the insane amount of thermal activity in the area.  We got to swim in a river that had hot spring runoff draining into it, creating natural spa-like water conditions.  We saw petrified trees.  We did a short hike along the rim of the ‘grand canyon of the Yellowstone’, a massive steep-walled canyon that has actual yellow stone walls.

And the wildlife.  We saw pretty much every animal on the ‘animal identification’ section of the visitor’s pamphlet.  Herds of bison, elk, moose, mule deer, a coyote, bald eagles, and our personal favorite, a set of pronghorn antelope.

When we planned this section of the trip, my dad was insisting we visit Yellowstone.  Now I know why – this is an incredible, bucket-list kind of place, where you can drive from one “wow!” to another “wow!” for days on end.

Jackson Hole #2

Kristen’s first fish!

Cara and Keenan all decked out for downhill mountain biking

We met up with my family in Jackson Hole, for a week-long vacation.  The group consisted of Kristen and myself, my mom, dad, sister Cara, and her boyfriend Keenan.

Again, the easiest way to describe the trip is day-by-day:

Day 1: everyone arrived in the afternoon and we rode the Jackson Hole gondola to the top of the mountain for some evening drinks (we were staying at a beautiful ski-in/ski-out condo right at the base of the mountain).

Day 2: Grand Teton National Park.  We all piled into the rented Ford Flex and went for a tour of the park.  The highlight of the day was the hike to Inspiration Point, above Jenny Lake.  This may have been my mom’s first experience with a ‘real’ hike – about 4-5 miles with a decent elevation gain.  She took about a billion pictures.  I think she liked it.  On the way back down, Keenan led us on a cross-country journey off the trail.

Day 3: my dad treated us all to a day of guided fly-fishing on the Snake River.  At first, I was skeptical that we could really fill 8 hours fly fishing.  But once we got going – man! – what a blast.  I could have stayed for another 8 hours.  There were 3 boats (one couple + guide per boat), and everyone caught multiple fish.  My dad held the honors of the day with 8 fish caught.  I had 5, and Kristen had 3.  At one point, Kristen and I started to fish a well-known hole, and an absolute monster nibbled at Kristen’s line – the guide estimated at least 22-24”.  We spent the better part of the next hour in a frenzy trying to catch him.  We probably went through 10 flies, taking turns to see if we could lure him out.  In the end, we had some nibbles from other big guys, but the monster became ‘the one that got away’.

Day 4: Keenan, Cara, Kristen, and I went downhill mountain biking in the morning.  It was Cara and Keenan’s first time riding mountain bikes, so they had to rent equipment.  We were expecting the rental to include helmets and bikes, but they ended up including full body armor.  Which was absolutely hilarious.  Cara and Keenan both wiped out once (they both learned all about braking while cornering) but nothing major.  Kristen and I did not buy lift tickets, so we were riding to the top of the downhill course each lap.  We were both bombing the downhills, even hitting some of the terrain features where possible, hardtails be damned.  I have to say, it was somewhat surprising that Kristen enjoyed downhill mountain biking, considering that just a couple months ago she hated going down the back sides of rollers.

After the morning’s activities, we drove up to Yellowstone, en route to our next condo in Big Sky.  We thought the drive would take only a few hours, but we ended up spending all afternoon (and most of the evening) snooping around Yellowstone.  The park is pretty much irresistible.

Las Vegas > Jackson, WY

Crack in the rock near petroglyphs at the Valley of Fire

I arrived in Las Vegas on Sunday night (Kristen and I stayed in the hotel room left over from the bachelorette party she was at over the weekend).  We picked up the car + bikes in the early afternoon on Monday and headed up to meet my family in Jackson Hole (we stopped in Provo for the night before completing the drive on Tuesday).

On the way, we stopped at the Valley of Fire state park, about an hour outside Las Vegas.  This is one of those places that qualifies as a ‘best kept secret’.  Most people spend their Vegas trip gambling, golfing, shooting automatic weapons at that insane gun range, or whatever.  But I’d bet almost nobody goes to see this place.  Too bad – it’s a wacky area of bright red stone just off the shore of Lake Mead.  There are petroglyphs, natural arches, and all sorts of other cool rock formations.  Well worth the trip.

Oh, and our car thermometer hit a new record high – 112F!

Go Congress – North Carolina

The two of us in uniform at the Pair Go competition

We spent a week in Black Mountain, NC (just East of Asheville) for the US Go Congress.  (Go is an Asian board game somewhat similar to Chess).

The Burralls are somewhat famous on the domestic Go scene, and the US Go Congress is the major event of the year, featuring multiple tournaments and activities.  Steve (Kristen’s dad) has been playing since he was a kid and introduced the family to the game.  Karoline (Kristen’s sister) was a tournament director at this year’s Congress.  Matt (Kristen’s brother) is one of the 50 best amateur players in the country.  Kristen is a strongly rated amateur as well.

We flew into Charlotte and rented road bikes for the week.  Black Mountain is in the Blue Ridge Mountains, so great road riding was plentiful.  We went for a ride nearly every day, including one monster 40 miler with upwards of 3,000ft of steep climbing.

The Congress itself was held at a large YMCA campus just outside of town.  Tournament play happened every morning, and most afternoons as well.  Kristen did not enter the tournaments, though, so we had mornings free to hang out around town and walk around the campus.  Rides happened in the afternoon, after Kristen’s dad was done with his daily tournament game.

The highlight of the week was definitely the Pair Go competition.  Though we were not playing in the major tournaments, Kristen and I were allowed to sign up for the Pair Go tournament on Thursday evening.  Pair Go is what it sounds like – instead of the typical 1-on-1 game, two co-ed pairs of people play each other.  Each player takes alternate moves, and the pairs are not allowed to communicate with each other.  So what ends up happening is that the strong player (Kristen) tries to execute a solid strategy, but every other move the weak player (me) screws it up.

Couples sometimes dress up for Pair Go.  So of course, we wore our matching Waffel bike kits.

Despite Kristen’s strong rating, our average rank was one of the lowest in the tournament.  Luckily, Karoline and Wentao also had one of the lowest combined ranks in the tournament as well.  We played them in our first game and somehow pulled out a win!  Confident from our victory, we promptly got destroyed by a 7 year old boy and a woman who hadn’t played much before, following a series of horrible mistakes by me.  Go is a humbling game.

California Coast

View near the lighthouse on Point Reyes

View of the Salinas Valley from our campsite

Us in Big Sur after spotting several California Condors

Kristen on her bike near Santa Barbara

After leaving Sacramento, we needed to get to the Las Vegas airport to catch our flights to North Carolina.  You can theoretically do the drive in 8-10 hours on the freeway, but we decided we wanted to do it right – drive the 1 down the coast.

The trip took 6 days:

Day 1: picked up our friend Matt in Berkeley and spent the day at Point Reyes (north of SF), then got Mexican food in the Mission and crashed on Matt’s couch.

Day 2: drove the coast down through Santa Cruz to do some mountain biking.  We ended up trying out (and subsequently buying) some 5.10 shoes and platform pedals.  For the past month, we’ve been hearing about how great platform pedals are for mountain biking and were curious.  We tried them out on a pretty flat trail on the bluffs overlooking the ocean.  They were awfully weird after using clipless shoes for so long, but we decided they were worth keeping.  We spent the rest of the afternoon in Santa Cruz, checking out the pier and the coast.  That night, we camped on the top of a hill at the Laguna Seca Raceway, with beautiful views of the mountains around Salinas and Monterey.

Day 3: had breakfast in Salinas and visited John Steinbeck’s childhood home.  We’re huge Steinbeck fans (especially after reading East of Eden, easily my favorite book of all time).  Then we went to the Monterey Bay Aquarium (even better than we both remembered), did the 17 Mile Drive through Pebble Beach and had a picnic on the grounds.  That evening, we drove down to a packed state park in Big Sur to cook some dinner and camp for the night.

Day 4: had breakfast at a roadside inn, and then did 2 hikes in Big Sur.  The first went up the coast range on a restricted dirt road, with views of the ocean.  After about 30-45 minutes, we decided the views were pretty but not worthy of Big Sur (Kristen: “this view sucks.”  Me: “we can see the ocean and mountains!”  Kristen: “this is BIG SUR, one of the most beautiful places in the world.  If I can’t even see the coastline, this hike is lame.  Let’s go to the bluffs.”  And she was right.  We hiked for a number of miles along the costal bluffs, and didn’t ever want to leave.  But duty called, and we drove down to Pismo Beach, set up camp just off the shore, got some tacos in town, and watched the sunset from the pier.

Day 5: drove down to Santa Barbara for some mountain biking just over the range above the city.  This was our first real ride with platform pedals, and results were mixed.  We had some difficulty at first getting our feet in the right place, but (at least for me), they proved their worth around the many sandy corners on the trail, as I often had to put my inside foot down to avoid slipping out.  Kristen had some solid issues with the sand as well, washing her front wheel out 4-5 times.  We’d been kicking the can down the road on buying her a new set of tires (she still had the set that came with the bike on there), so it looked like it was finally time to get her some extra grip.  The trail was super fun, though, with a 45 minute climb up, and miles of rolling singletrack on the way back down.  Afterward, we cleaned up and met Kristen’s friend Vicky for dinner in Santa Monica, then crashed on her floor.

Day 6: had breakfast with Kristen’s friend Gwen in Pasadena, then drove up to Las Vegas.  The temperature gauge in the car read a max of 110 degrees, our highest yet!  Since we would be leaving Vegas that night for a week, we needed to find somewhere to store our car and bikes.  Parking costs $30+ per day at the casinos, and we were nervous about security at other cheaper lots.  So, we dropped the bikes off for a tune-up at a local bike shop, then took the car in for some warranty maintenance and an oil change at the local Ford dealer, telling both we’d be back in a week to pick them up!

Sacramento / Karoline’s Wedding

18x beer tasting at the legendary Russian River Brewing Co.

Kristen’s sister Karoline before her wedding

After 6 weeks of coast-to-coast travel, we stopped at our ‘home base’ – the Burrall house in Sacramento.  We intended to stay for ~2 weeks, in order both to relax and recharge, and to help prepare for (and attend) Kristen’s sister Karoline’s wedding.

Karoline and her fiancee (now husband) Wentao had planned their wedding in the Burrall’s backyard.  Many of the preparations were made by the time we arrived, but there was still a lot of work to do to get the house straightened up and figure out the final details.  The entire Burrall family (and many friends as well) pitched in to make sure the day was equal to Karoline’s vision.  Kristen, of course, acted as the organizer general, assigning tasks and making lists.

The day turned out perfectly.  Worries about heat and rain never came to pass, the food and music were fantastic, and everyone (especially Karoline) seemed to have a great time.

The time was not all wedding preparations, though.  Kristen and I set up our road bikes and rode nearly every day (including a few 40-60 milers).  We took two trips back up to Napa/Sonoma – one for Kristen to get Keratin put in her hair, and one with our friend Matt.  Both times, we stopped off at the Russian River Brewing Company for beer tastings.  Russian River Brewing is probably one of the best breweries in the country, with a couple of beers rated the ‘best in the world’.  Needless to say, that place is awesome.  Literally, inspires awe.  They always have 18 beers on tap, generally in styles I’d never seen or had before.  I think we’ll be going back in the future.

In all, the two weeks in Sacramento were not as relaxing as we expected, but they were certainly fun.